Narai Post Town

During the Edo Period Naria Post town was generally recognised as the half-way point between Kyoto and Tokyo on the Nakasendo.  It was the most prosperous post town of the Kiso Valley, or often also known as the Kisoji.  The Kisoji trade route stretched for about 70km along the valley and in its hey-day was a very important commercial hub.  Due to its commercial success and becoming the wealthiest Post Town in the valley it become widely referred to as ‘Narai of a Thousand Houses’. 

In this blog post we cover the following:

• About Narai Post Town;
• Walking from Yabuhara Post Town to Narai Post Town;
• Where to stay in Narai
• What to see in Narai

About Narai Post Town

Narai’s wealth largely came about due to the restrictions placed on travellers by the shogunate restricting movement between the capital cities and forcing the hoi-paolloi to journey on foot.  As a result Post Towns popped up along the route (roughly 8km apart) to provide travellers with a place to rest.  These post town stops also began to flourish as a number of commercial services, not just accommodation, began to appear on the route.

Narai is the largest Post Town we visit on our Nakasendo, with its two long rows of traditional Edo Period Japanese houses that line both sides of the street.  It earned the status of a Cultural Asses in the Groups of Traditional Buildings category of the Cultural Properties of Japan in 1978 and is maintained by the Japanese Government grant system.  It has since become one of Japan's Nationally Designated Architectural Preservation Sites, so the buildings have been kept much like they originally were in the Edo period The preservation areas comprises an area of roughly 1km stretching north to south and 200m east to west along the boundary of the old Nakasendo route.

Yabuhara to Narai Post Town

We walk the 7.5km from Yabuhara Post Town, over Torii Toge Pass to Narai.  It is a beautiful walk over the pass that takes between 2-3 hours at a very leisurely pace.  The decent into Narai is always very pleasant, and also very welcome as the two rows of neat Edo period house snake along each side of the main road. 

As we head towards our accommodation there are interesting Japanese shops with local vending their various interesting wares such as ceramics, kitchen and household goods, and interesting crafts.  Street food stalls are also dotted along the main street making for some mouth-watering treats, such as nikuma (pork or other white buns) or osembei (rice crackers) etc.

What to see in Narai

The main street is by far the longest of any post town.  The houses are rather similar, however, it is worth an explore, you may just come across that antique shop that has the perfect souvenir you’ve been searching for.  Some of them are decked out in as a restaurant and you may not be able pass up some of the delicious food on offer.

You’ll also find two former residences that are open to the public and worth an explore – however unlike the previous post towns we've visited on our journey along the nakasendo the Honjin and Wakihonjin no longer exist.  Also, unlike Tsumago, vehicles are permitted on the streets and this tends to break the illusion of being in an Edo Period town.

Following are some worth while sites to see in Narai.

Nakamura Residence

• Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 (until 16:00 December to March) 
• Closed: Mondays from December to March Admission: 300 yen.
• This building is a prime example of a typical residence in Narai. It is maintained in the same manner as it was kept during the Edo Period. Artefacts of the original owners are on display.

The former residence of Rihei Nakamura, who was a comb craftsman and later, became a comb wholesaler in Narai during the Edo period. He dealt in Orokugushi combs.  The residence used to belong to a painted-comb wholesaler. It is dashibari-zukuri (beam-protruding) style, which is typical of Narai’s houses in town. 

When you look at the sunken hearth in the kitchen and the large open ceiling space, you can imagine what life was like in those days. It is open to the public as a city's cultural property.  A gabled building built in the Edo period. You can see the interior space of a typical town house of Narai-juku. There are also painted combs and tools on display.

Kamidonya Shiryokan

• Hours: 10:00 to 17:00 (until 16:00 in March and November 
• Closed:  December to Febraury Admission:  300 yen 
• The spacious former residence of a local wholesaler, this building is maintained as it was in the Edo Period. There is a small garden in the back of the house

Narai Notice Board (Kosatsuba)

In former times the notice board was the means of pronouncing decrees from the shogunate. This notice board is heavily faded. Decrees and proclamations are written in Japanese

Kiso Ohashi 

This spectacular wooden bridge in the shape of a Japanese drum extends in a 30 meters arch of the Narai River.  It is one of the longest wooden bridges, made from hinoki (cypress) wood. 

Close family friends of mine, local to Nagano were happy to share with me the little known fact that no nails are used in its construction, similar to other traditional Japanese craftsmanship.  The bridge is illuminated at night between April and November.  It is well worth a quick visit and memorable photo! 

Narai is the largest example of an Edo Period post town.  The post town snakes it way along the valley floor between Torii Toge Pass and the JR Train Station.  There are various traditional accommodation options available, some with an iori or traditional ash fire pit that meals are prepared around as well as the more traditional shukuba or Japanese style inn consisting of a delicious seasonal array of food and usually a traditional Japanese bath.

So, when will you visit Narai Post Town and will you stay the night for the full experience in one of the wonderful traditional Japanese accommodation options?